Throwback to November last year. It was the first big challenge-roadtrip I did when I created this site. I was also talking with my good friend Gosia the other day about doing a weekend in Marrakesh, so it motivated me to finally write what I was meaning to write a long while ago. A few ‘how to drive in Morocco’ pointers and what NOT to do when hiring a car down that neck of the woods (desert).

Even though it’s been a year, I still remember all the routes very well and each and every hotel, hostel or refuge I stayed in. Morocco is an amazing place on earth and I’d love to do another trip soon (apart from a girly, sex-in-the-city style weekend in Marrakesh).

Just a quick reminder what the route included: landing in Tangier from Malaga, followed by a day in Fez. The plan was to get to Ouarzazate on day 3 but..I’ll talk about this in more detail below. Essentially, we left too late that morning and ended up trying to cross the Atlas mountains driving on dirt tracks in pitch black, which turned out to be washed away by the river anyway. So we were forced to turn back (extra 2h drive in the night) and stayed in a random hotel near Midelt.

Eventually we reached Ouarzazate on day 4, then climbed Toubkal (that took 2 days) and a weekend in Marrakesh where I just stuffed myself with kilograms of McDonalds (it was well deserved)

The plan was to drive further south to Tarfaya, but return flights were already booked (and we had to give the car back in Tangier the same day), so we couldn’t do an extra day (or two) of driving. Frankly, together with climbing Toubkal you need 12 days minimum to do a round trip of the whole country. 10 just wasn’t quite enough, all felt a bit rushed.

So, basic rule of driving in Morocco… just drive. Be confident. When passing through villages, slow down, though pedestrians (going in every direction, also on mules, horses or bikes) tend to sort of ‘automatically’ stop/wait for your car to pass, odd as it may sound. It first looks like chaos, but it’s a self-regulating chaos. I know it sounds weird, but even though everyone walks all over the road, they never suddenly jump in front of your car. Yes, accidents happen, so have common sense. But just drive, at a slower, safe pace, but always confidently. Don’t stop every 5 meters thinking ‘should I let him through?’. Drive, drive, drive.

You’ll most definitely come across various ‘means of transport’ en route. From animals to old Russian trucks carrying 20 meter high haystack ‘towers’ which you think will fall down any moment right in front of your windscreen (it’s highly unlikely, though there’s no guarantee). Again, common sense. Keep a safe distance. Yes, you can overtake as and when, just like on any other road.

Speed limits. Well, in theory, there aren’t that many. The usual limits on the motorways or main roads, but on the local bits, you can drive however fast/ slow you like. But watch out for police. And obviously other inexperienced (or stoned) drivers.

The main roads are as good as anywhere else across the world, so it’s easy to get from one big city to the other. The dirt tracks, like the ones going through the Atlas Mountains…well, they are want the are. Handy if you have a full tank before you head into those areas (petrol stations are few and far between) and also worth knowing how to change a wheel. I mean, the odds are nothing will happen, BUT…

If you want to drive through mountainscapes or heavily wooded (or deserted) areas, take my advice, plan your route thoroughly beforehand and leave early. We are so used to relying on google maps and internet… I recommend an old school paper map and checking any extra bits with google while still at the hotel (with wi-fi). Avoid driving in the night. I learnt the hard way. It might turn out that the road doesn’t actually exist anymore (even though it features on the map) and you have to drive back a few hours to where you started.

Mind you, Morrocco is still very much a ‘police state' so at nearly every entry into town has a police guarded ‘gate’ you go through. Slow down when you pass these. The guys usually just wave at you (or don’t even pay attention) but the odd time they can stop you for a routine check. Actually, it makes you feel extra safe if anything. Don't be alarmed.

Now, hiring a car. Yes, better to organise something before you head out to Morocco. We hired with a local company.. but here’s the story in a nutshell. We didn’t pre-book and though , ah we’ll just go back to the airport next day and get something. Nope. You can’t just get back into the Tangier airport building unless you have a flight on that day, arghhh. So it took a good half a day of me smiling and pestering the police guys at the airport and trying to get back in. And as luck would have it, was impossible to contact anyone at the car hire desks on the phone for whatever reason:/ Eventually we got it and hired a Dacia Duster from a local firm, paid a bit extra to minimise excess amount on credit card . Also remember to negotiate. Altogether the car with insurances cost around 500 euro from what I remember (can be done a bit cheaper if you don’t take the extra bits, but better safe than sorry). Avis gave us quotes closer to 1000 euro, auch.

Above all, enjoy. Morocco has some of the most beautiful roads you will ever drive on and my favourites being those spectacular, winding Atlas Mountain tracks. I will never forget them.